TBI SWAP TO NON-INJECTION VEHICLES ALL BORROWD FROM DIFF. SITES LOT OF EDIT GOING ON.

Discussion in 'General Truck Forum' started by chevychase, Feb 27, 2014.

  1. chevychase

    chevychase Semi-Admin
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    Crank signal C9
    Most scouts have a large white wire going from the ign sw to the S terminal of the starter. This is the one you want to tap into. I used a simple scotch lock but you can also run it to the starter and hook it right to the S terminal of the starter.

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    Fuel pump
    I had already ran a wire to the pump so I just spliced it to the open wire coming from the fuel pump relay B2.

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    TPS
    I have 2 different styles. The round later style and the earlier flat one.
    For this vehicle I will use the flat one.

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    If you are running the VSS then there will be 2 wires coming from it. 1 goes to ground. The other goes to A10. I also have an aftermarket cruise control so I splice it in to the VSS also.

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    And the main power wire goes the main starter terminal.

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    So what does spaghetti look like on a motor????

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    So now lets hook it all together and see if it works!!!

    You need a cable to log the data.
    you can build your own with the instructions provided or You can now buy a direct USB cable from me for $30. See the machine shop forum under Hamilton fuel injection. It plugs directly into your usb port and connects directly to the ALDL connector on the harness. No adapter needed.

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    Looking good!!! Note the green 20!!!

    Still have some cleaning up to do and put the wire loom back on and splice the ALDL connector and SES light in!!
     
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  2. chevychase

    chevychase Semi-Admin
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    NOW BEFORE YOU TRY TO START THE ENGINE!!!!!!!

    Pull out your meter and sheet 1 of the wiring diagrams.... i left from electrical from truck forum sticky.
    Look at the 2 outside columns, They are labeled.
    "KEY ON" and "ENG RUNNING"
    You need to do the key on voltage checks at the plugs on the back of the ECM or where they go to.
    This will save a lot of time trouble shooting if the system has problems.

    Last thing (I think)
    Connect and mount the ALDL and SES light.

    Here is the ALDL connector and the SES LED wired in.
    The SES is connected to the switched 12V on the + side and the ECM provides the ground thru wire A5 to light the light.

    [​IMG]

    And turn the key on and the light should light up and stay on till you start the engine.

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    Now to clean things up a little bit, I mounted the ALDL under the dash to an empty screw hole. First time I have mounted an ALDL connector. I normally just leave them in the glove box.

    And I used a rubber grommet and stuck the LED in the empty hole on the glove box lip.

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    Here is my ALDL cable that I normally use. Got it off EBay for about $30. it has a SES light built in, it has a toggle switch to flip between diagnostic modes without the need of a jumper. You have to move some wires around on the ALDL plug tho!

    [​IMG]
     
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  3. chevychase

    chevychase Semi-Admin
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    Maybe if i missed some thing someone can add if needed.
     
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  4. 79elco

    79elco Member

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    Thank you so so so so **** much I'm about to start do it right now, my only comment/question is we're not running any of the ac components. I just eliminate the ac relay or is that powering other wire as well?
     
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  5. 96silverado

    96silverado Full Member

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    Wow that is indeed A+ material&effort there Kent!!
    100%kuuudos!
     
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  6. chevychase

    chevychase Semi-Admin
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    No you will not have to use the ac relay. Ecm will increase rpms via the ac relay/iacv if ac is used.
    Can use other relays ..or ac relay if you had/have other accessories that would need rpm,s to go up...hope you understand . So if you are just doing a straight swap fuel relay will be all you need.
     
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  7. 79elco

    79elco Member

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    What should the inj powers be connected to? I got a red a white
     
  8. Ralphbf

    Ralphbf Member

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    Thanks, This is simply Awsome.

    Ralph
     
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  9. chevychase

    chevychase Semi-Admin
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    Did you read/look the thread over ?
    They will go to the ecm/pins/connectors. here is another to look over my friend.What is your ecm #,s


    Lay the harness out on your work bench and have each sensor plugged into the harness, then trace each wire back to the ECM connector, you will be able to separate a lot of uneeded wires, consult wiring diagrams.
    Once you have each wire identified and layed out, then you can set it up on the engine and start tailoring it to fit your engine.
    Placement of the sensors will determine wire length. Most stock harnesses are plenty long and only need to be shortened or wrapped and bundled. Use good wiring practices here, crimp connectors are just going to fail someday, solder or use connector without plastic cover and slightly crimp to hold wire in place but then solder. Solder and shrink wrap are permanent.
    When it's all done and it's running go back and reinstall the plastic loom over all the harness.
    Basics to Conversion wiring:
    I run 2 relays. 1 for 12v to the ignition, ECM power and injectors, and 1 for the fuel pump. I use the basic 30 amp aux lighting relays from the parts store. If the harness came with the factory fuel pump relay than I retain that relay. If not I use the 2nd 30 amp relay for the fuel pump. Both relays are energized from the 12v ignition wire that used to go to the + side of the coil. Since it is only used to turn the relays on there is less draw on the stock 30 year old scout wiring.
    I don't run the ign from the switch. Due to voltage drop from the old IH wiring. I run all switched(from the key "on" position) 12vdc thru the relay.

    If you use a bosch style relay here are the pins:
    There are several different versions of the relay out there so look at the pin numbers before you buy one.

    30-12v fused input(should also hook up your org ECM constant 12v to this wire)
    85- Gnd
    86- 12vdc from ign sw(black wire that was hooked up to the coil +)
    87- pink/blk, pink(ignition, ecm power)
    87- red, white(injectors)

    there are 2- 87 output terminals on the SPST 5 terminal relay so you can use both.
    Using factory relays like fuel pump relays are cheap and easy....
    Did you print them yet? Ha!


    Note:
    Pin A comes from the ECM pin A1 and is used to apply 12V to the relay to turn it on.

    Pin C is the ground wire. Can be connected to one of the black/wht wires.

    Pin D is your 12V from a fuse. This is normally tied to the org wires B1 and C16. It is the same that provides the bat 12V to the ECM.

    Pin B is the output of the relay going to the Fuel Pump or any other load you have connected to it.
    This also ties to pin B2 of the ECM to tell it when the FP is actually running.


    Now the pin letters may not be exactly the same as this diagram. That's not important. If you follow the diagram here and the description and just match it up to the diagram on your relay!!!

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    SYSTEM WIRING

    There are 2 connectors. If you look really close you can see they are labeled. The small one is A & B. The large one is C & D.
    There are also numbers on the plug for each pin.




    Here's a list of the pins but they are also on the wiring diagrams above.

    A1- grn/wht- this wire is used to energize the fuel pump relay.
    A2- not used
    A3- not used
    A4- gry- to EGR relay.(optional) This is a ground from the ECM to control the EGR relay.
    A5- brn/wht- SES(service eng soon) light. This is a ground to turn on the light.
    A6- pnk/blk- switched 12v from the ignition relay.
    A7- not used
    A8- orn- ALDL Serial data. This is your ALDL pin E data for your lap top.
    A9- wht/blk- ALDL pin B diag mode. When jumpered to ground will set the ECM to ALDL diagnostic mode.
    A10- brn- VSS speed sensor signal to the ECM (optional)
    A11- ppl or blk- MAP sensor ground.
    A12- blk/wht- System ground. Can be tied with D1. Goes to engine ground.


    A11 and A12 are also solder connected in ECM. Use them all as grounds or you risk grounding issues. GM did not add these because they are not needed. Some guys make short cuts, don't mess with perfection!

    B1- orn- 12v fused from battery. Use an inline fuse on this. It also ties into C16.
    B2- tan/wht- Fuel pump signal from the relay. This one ties into several places, the fuel pump, the relay, and the ecm. When the relay is on it sends 12v thru this wire to turn on the fuel pump, at the same time it tells the ECM the fuel pump is on.
    B3- blk/red- EST reference.
    B4- not used
    B5- ppl/wht- EST high reference
    B6- not used
    B7- blk- ESC signal This is the knock sensor signal to the ECM. There are ways to run without Knock Sensor circut but it is a good option, can save your motor and great for tuning!
    If not used, tie this wire to C14 the 5v reference. This will fool the system sometimes but you will need to program the chip to prevent the SES light from coming on.

    B8- dk grn- AC signal. This tells the ECM that the AC is turned on. Just tie it to the wire going to the AC clutch or on board air compressor or winch etc...
    B9- not used
    B10-orn/blk- Park/Neutral switch tells the ECM if in Park Or driving. Manual trans does not have this wire.
    B11- not used
    B12- not used

    C1- not used
    C2- not used
    C3- IAC
    C4- IAC
    C5- IAC
    C6- IAC -The ECM controls the IAC motor. It adjust the amount of air that is bypassed around the butterflies to adjust the idle speed.
    Note: For the IAC pins C5 and C6 are reversed on the 454 vs the SBC so swap those 2 pins if using a 454 TB with the bolt on IAC.

    C7- not used
    C8- not used
    C9- ppl/wht- Starter crank signal. Goes to the small terminal of the starter. Tells the ECM you are trying to start the engine. Hook to starter wire that is hot only when key in crank position.
    C10- yel- Temp sender signal
    C11- lt grn- Map sensor signal
    C12- Not used on 1227747 but is IAT on 1228746
    C13- dk blu- TPS sensor signal
    C14- gry- 5v reference signal to map and TPS.
    C15- grn- inj B ground signal.
    C16- orn- fused 12v tied to B1

    D1- blk/wht- System ground, ties to A12 and engine.
    D2- blk- Sensor ground. To eng block or head.
    D3- not used
    D4- wht- EST control
    D5- tan/blk- EST bypass. This is the wire that has a plug near the distr that you disconnect to set your timing.
    D6- Tan- O2 ground to engine.
    D7- ppl- O2 sensor signal
    D8- not used
    D13 not used
    D14- lt grn- Injector B ground signal
    D15- blu- optional injector A ground signal
    D16- blu- Injector A ground signal
     
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  10. 79elco

    79elco Member

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    That was my mistake I found that after I sent that message.
    im wondering about the ESC (electronic spark control) if I'm not running a knock sensor does this tie into run anything else?
     
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